Lekhubu Island Pilgrimage
 


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Openmind Training

by personal invitation only

                                                                    Photo: Rick Wallace

Lekhubu Island Experience

Botswana

9 to 22 July 2008

So what is this all about?

It is generally accepted among locals in Botswana that the most profound place anywhere in this awesome country, both aesthetically and spiritually, must be full moon at Lekhubu Island on the vast Magadigadi Pans.  The place is an enigma.  Only a kilometer long, it rises as an isolated sentinel in a salt pan so enormous that it is clearly visible from the space shuttle.  But there is more.  The island itself has mysterious stone walls made by a people long lost to history.  The island is also guarded by huge Baobab trees with an extraordinary pink hue.  The Magadigadi is so vast and so flat in every direction that you can see the curvature of the Earth.  To be at this place when the Kalahari sun sets in the west while the full moon rises in the east is an experience that ranks foremost in the rites of passage of any of Botswana explorers over the centuries.  But then what if we combine this with shamanic ritual of our own?  What if this experience comes to us at the end of a twelve day pilgrimage into the most remote corners of Botswana to visit the last remaining wild clans of our San friends including the Dobe (!Kung) and the Xade communities (subject to the evictions and a successful land claim)?  This would be an experience that Anne and I believe has no equal.  This is the Lekhubu Island Experience.

Only hand picked candidates have been invited to join us.  Every participant on this experience will have already joined us in the Kalahari at least once and/or is well known to us.  This is crucial as we want a cohesive and like-minded group who can bond together and make the most of what promises to be one of the most remarkable expeditions ever undertaken to the San people.

Is it safe?  Depending on the number of pilgrims that join us we will either run with two Land Cruisers in convoy or we will hire a Mercedes Unimog (the Mog), arguably the worlds most capable off-road vehicle.  The Mog is a four ton 4x4 with a unique flexible chassis that can do things off road that no other vehicle could think of.  The entire trip will be run to a tight itinerary with regular reporting to back-up and emergency recovery check points.  Finally we will have the use of a satellite phone so if all else fails we can simply phone home!

Highlights within the Lekhubu Island Experience

Highlights within the experience include:

A pilgrimage to the North-East wilderness of Botswana , ranked the most remote place in the country.  Here we will visit the amazing Drotsky's caves with their weird stalagmites and stalactites.  More importantly though is that this area is home to the most remote San communities in Botswana, the Ju|’hoansi (!Kung).  These are the same clans that were engaged in the research work of the Marshall family in the 50’s and then both Biesele and Katz in the 70's.  These communities are also reputed to have retained much of their traditional lifestyles and are as close to traditional San people as you are likely to find anywhere.

From Dobe we will migrate south to our old friends the Nharo of D’Kar.  Our plan is to get behind the scenes here and to engage with them and gain a deeper understanding of the challenges that face them their livelihoods in the D’Kar camp, education of the children and the impact of modernization and western religion on their belief systems.  Of course the evenings will be filled by healing dances under the Kalahari night sky.

Third among the highlights is the huge Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the focus of the controversy between Survival International and the Botswana Government.  On the outskirts of the reserve we will visit Grasslands Safaris, a remote camp actively promoting cultural tourism where we can gain an insight into the ethics of involving the San in non-specific “cultural” tourism.  We then visit the New Xade, the controversial settlement to which they were relocated after being evicted from the reserve, before entering the reserve to Xade camp, their traditional home where we spend another night.  From Xade we will travel north across the reserve through an area so remote that one can expect to see only two vehicles a month on average.  We will camp at Desolation Valley before exiting the reserve on route to the Magadigadi.

The final highlight will be full moon at Lekhubu Island on the Magadigadi salt pans.  This mysteriously sacred place is believed to have been used for initiation ceremonies for thousands of years.  Stone crescent walls and over 450 stone cairns tantalizing suggest this shamanic purpose but the reality is lost in time.  The Batswana hold the site as highly sacred and undertake a number of traditional ceremonies there.  It is also believed to be the place where God lives, below the walls.  What an extraordinary culmination of our time together.

Your guides

Greg and Anne Laws are your guides.  They are the founders and Directors of Openmind Training and the creators of the San Shamanic Pilgrimage and Lekhubu Island Experience. 

Greg is an internationally renowned environmentalist and writer specializing in southern African culture, adventure and story-telling.  He is graduate of the intensive One Year Training in Classical Shamanism as taught by The Sacred Trust.  He runs his own successful training company in the UK.  Greg wrote his Masters degree on the interface between remote rural communities and modernization and has decades of direct exposure to Africa’s shamanic traditions including significant work with the San people.  He has appeared on television and radio on numerous occasions and has beenbeen commended on his work by a minister in Nelson Mandela’s cabinet. 

Raised by rural Zulu, Anne has a deep connection to African shamans, being called to the Zulu Sangoma from a young age and has since trained in core shamanism through The Sacred Trust.  Anne has a profound empathy with Africa’s people and a deep love of the Kalahari.  She is a professional photographer and a highly skilled chef specializing in catering for large groups in remote wilderness locations.  Anne is also qualified in First Aid with excellent knowledge of medical care in the African wilderness. 

 

Itinerary

The experience includes thirteen nights in Botswana.

8 July 2008

Fly out of London overnight to Johannesburg, South Africa.  This is a 10 hour flight (north-south so no jet lag) and it is not included in the fee.  Expect to pay around £600 per ticket for indirect flights booked well in advance

9 July 2008

Fly out of Johannesburg to Maun, Botswana on the Okavango Delta (2 hours).  This flight is included in the fee.  You will be met at Maun airport and will spend the night at Okavango River Lodge in chalets to enable an early start.

10 July 2008

Leave early for the long drive to Drotsky’s Caves.  We travel west on tar to Sehithwa then north for a short distance on the Shakawe road then left onto a sand track for 140km to the caves where we camp for the night.

11 July 2008

In the morning we explore the caves and then set off for Xai Xai village, then past the Aha Hills and onto the famous Dobe community where Richard Katz did his research into “boiling energy” among the Ju|’hoansi (!Kung) San.  We overnight with the community, hopefully entice them into a healing dance.

12 July 2008

We spend the day with the Dobe people, hopefully doing some tracking.  It will also be good to talk to the local Herero cattle herders and get a sense from them on the plight of the San.

13 July 2008

We leave early again for a 340km drive to Dqae Qare farm to visit old friends and to engage in healing dances in the evening.

14 July 2008

The day will be spent with the Nharo and activities agreed by group consensus.  We can visit D’Kar and the homes of our hosts, visit the local schools, clinics etc.  Or we could spend the day at the farm, tracking and generally relaxing.

15 July 2008

We set off for a short drive to Grasslands Safaris on the edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR).  We will camp here but also engage the management and the local San on their tourism activities.  This is one of the better known destinations in Botswana for regular tourists looking for a “Bushman experience”.

16 July 2008

Travel to the CKGR but then veer a short distance west at the gate to visit the New Xade settlement to which the San were evicted by the Botswana government.  From there we enter the reserve to Xade, traditional home of the G/ui and G//ana San people where we spend the night.

17 July 2008

We spend the day traveling through some of the most remote wilderness in Botswana from Xade to Desolation Valley where you can expect to see one vehicle every three weeks on average.  We should see plenty of unusual wildlife such as Meerkats and also the chance of seeing some of the numerous lions in the reserve.  We spend the night at Desolation Valley in the reserve.

18 July 2008

Leaving the CKGR we join the tar road again at Rakops and then head south east to Orapa, by-passing the mines (the richest gemstone mines in the world).  We cut off north and enter the vast expanses of the Magadigadi.  Tracking with GPS we head north and then east for about 90km across the pans to Lekhubu Island.  It is full moon tonight and we witness this extraordinary spectacle.

19 July 2008

Spend the day at Lekhubu exploring the island and engaging in our own shamanic ceremonies on this sacred site.

20 July 2008

We leave Lekhubu, track directly across the vast Ntewtwe Pan to rejoin the Natal/Maun tar road but then turn off this again after a short distance to Baines Baobabs, an exceptional outcrop of Baobabs made famous through the paiting by Thomas Baines and also the infamous site where Greg and Anne nearly came unglued in 2007!  We spend the night here.

21 July 2008

We face a leisurely drive from Baines to Maun where we spend our last night together at Okavango River Lodge.

22 July 2008

Fly out of Maun to Johannesburg for connections to London

Cost of the Pilgrimage

Participants strictly limited to 15 places

The total inclusive cost of the pilgrimage is £1,800 per person.  We can accept all major credit/debit cards, cheques or cash.  Suggested payment schedule is then as follows:

£250 deposit by 30 November 2007 at the latest please.  A cleared deposit will secure your place on the pilgrimage on a first come, first served basis.

£450 payable by 31 March 2008

£1,100 final payment by 31 June 2008

Included in the fee:  Flight from Johannesburg to Maun.  All transport within Botswana including drivers, fuel, tolls etc.  All accommodation costs.  All meals including teas, coffees and water supplies.  All camping equipment (tents, mattresses, cups, cutlery, plates, chairs, etc).

Not included in the fee:  The flight from London (or elsewhere) to Johannesburg.  All extra refreshments, snacks etc. not included in regular meals.  Sleeping bag and pillow and all other items of a personal nature.

How To Book

Please notify us as soon as possible of your intention to join us. 

Phone:         01794 399979

Address:       Openmind Training, Barn House, Glebe Lane , Landford , SP5 2AB

 

 
 
 
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